Where “good enough” is NOT good enough!
About Antique Stove Hospital
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! ALL READ THIS:
We at the Antique Stove Hospital have noticed a troubling trend in the past months. There have been several businesses around the country that have opened up with very similar names to ours. Please note that the Antique Stove Hospital HAS NO ANNEXES OR SUBSIDIARY BRANCHES, and is not under any circumstances affiliated with these other businesses trying to masquerade as being one entity. If you are questioning the authenticity of your potential purchase, it is important to make sure that you are buying from either Emery Pineo or Brandon Pineo at the Antique Stove Hospital in Little Compton, Rhode Island. If you have been solicited by ANY other individual who represents themselves as being part of the Antique Stove Hospital, please let us know so we may take appropriate legal action.
Here at the Antique Stove Hospital we specialize in returning wood and coal stoves to day one condition. All stoves are totally disassembled, cleaned, parts welded or replaced as needed, caulked, reassembled, painted, new grates installed and nickel replaced. Our stoves are rebuilt one at a time from good original stoves and guaranteed to operate as they were designed. Kitchen ranges and parlor stoves are available. We carry stove that range from AD 1790 to AD 1930.
Wood/gas combination ranges were the top of each manufacturer's line. They combined the advantages of both the wood/coal winter range and the gas fired summer range. We restore the solid fuel fireboxes to either wood or coal. The gas fixtures are completely rebuilt for propane or natural gas depending upon the planned use of the stove. Gas ovens and broilers are insulated if needed and thermostats and safeties are added to the unit.
We are not a large operation that is restoring stoves on an assembly line. Each stove is personally attended to by Emery or Brandon Pineo and will not leave the shop until it is ready. We do not sell stoves as decorations or curios but for everyday use in your home. I am not a broker. With the exception of castings and nickel plating, all work is done here at the hospital. In rare cases when we are backed up for several months or a year we will give a customer the option of purchasing a stove wholesale with the understanding that it will be delivered by us to a trusted competitor and will be restored by that individual. This is ALWAYS known to the customer and generally is only in extreme circumstances with very large restorations when we are too far behind.
We maintain an inventory of about 300-400 stoves at all times. Call and we can discuss your wishes and the availability of the stoves. I prefer not to accept deposits on sales, but rather ask for payment when you are happy with the stove.
Emery Pineo "Paleostoveologist " and son Brandon "Stove whisperer"
THOSE SEEKING RESTORATION SERVICES PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING NEW INFORMATION!!!
Changes in business; People used to come in and buy stoves for occasional use and nostalgia. No more! I'm seeing folks that realize that some winter there will be a shortage of fuel and lots of cold people. They are preparing by having a coal/wood range or a parlor stove. Both run on fuels that are available locally and can be stored. Coal can be bought years ahead and stored in the cellar(I buy mine in July , in plastic 40 pound bags on a pallet.I'm still using some that I bought several years ago). When we loose power I often don't know till morning when I try to brush my teeth.--no water!! Most modern stoves use electricity, or worse --a manufactured product like pellets! This year many dealers got their pellet supply in March--almost spring!! I like my winter fuel supply where I can see it.
My wood and coal restoration has reached the point where I will be doing mostly the coal/wood end of the business and less in the gas area. We send most of our gas work out to a man who specializes in that work only.
Our business has expanded greatly this year. Let's face it, things are pretty uncertain right now. I am currently swamped with folks that are worried about winter heating and the availability of various fossil fuels. My son who originally took a year off from teaching in order to help here, is now full time. If you are thinking of a wood/coal range or heater, please do not wait till the last minute. Order early if you plan to use a stove this winter. We will do our best to meet everyone's needs.
1. I've turned sixty nine and I have started to bury my friends. My very best friend of forty years died on election day. Two others in the month before or after.
2. My insurance has taken a quantum leap that means , in effect, I would be working to support them. I now know why they own the large buildings like the Prudential Center
3. These stoves seem to be getting heavier. I need help now to haul even the smaller ranges up a flight of stairs.
4. Time is much more important than money right now . Someone else is catching the fish, I have cars to restore, dogs to walk, and sunsets to be viewed.
You will see that many of the stoves on this site are sold. I do have around 250 right now in stock and we are restoring as fast as possible but cannot catch up. Folks have realized that a wood range may be very important one of these days and are buying now. If you see one you like you can order now and pick it up when it is done. Deposits; We do not take deposits. You tell us what stove you want, we restore it, then you decide if you like the stove. If you do not like the stove you are free to walk away.
BEWARE OF "FRANKENSTOVES". More and more lately we have been encountering stoves where a dealer has taken a body from one manufacturer and added shelves or other parts from another manufacturer. Some such arrangements may consist of a warming oven of unknown origin, or legs that sort-of...maybe fit etc. We believe that you came in to buy a restored genuine complete antique stove and we will not sell you a stove that has mismatched parts. These are antiques and not getting any younger. As a buyer in the market for a stove you must protect your investment by getting a quality restoration of an original whole stove. If you don't buy here, be sure to ask/ investigate!
I do ship stoves all over the country. I am forced to charge for crating as it takes time and pallets, particle board, ,a trip to Home Depot, etc. Recently I have developed a relationship with a broker that has allowed me to get discounts in the 70% range. The trick is that I must pay up front to get the discount. I usually crate the stove, get the price, then have you pay by credit card before pickup. The difference is enormous. A $1000 shipping charge will be more like $200. Delivery to your home by liftgate can also be arranged if you wish.
We are often asked if the stove in the photo is the one for sale. We do not show one photo and deliver another stove like some shops. The stove in the photo is the exact one you will receive. Some dealers use a filed photo and deliver another example or a similar stove to the customer. We will not do that. Many of my stoves say SOLD on the website. That means that that particular stove is sold, however we may have several others of the same make and model available. An example would be a Glenwood C. We usually have 8-10 around at all times, but we would rather send you photos of the exact stove we have to restore for you before you decide on a stove. We are trying to be completely honest about the stove you buy. It is a big investment so take your time, as you will have to look at it for many years!
If you think things are fine in the USA, you better think again
1. My supplier of firebrick just closed after a lifetime of service.
2. My supplier of sand blast materials just closed after being in business since 1837!
3. My good nickel welding rod has been discontinued as it was too expensive to make.
4. My nickel plater has closed and moved and is no where near up to speed.
5. Every item I buy to work on stoves is getting more expensive at an accelerating rate.
Everything is not OK. Best to get prpared as it looks like trouble is headed our way
1. Glenwood thermometers come in two types. The early and the late ones. The late ones always work and the early examples usually don't. Reproduction thermometers are a poor replacement for an original, and usually come from China. My son has developed a method of rebuilding early Glenwood thermometers. It does require that the original be complete, but if it is, it can usually be made to run like it did one hundred years ago. It is a long, complicated process but will cure the problem forever. Call and ask for Brandon about this service.
2. Stove lessons. If you buy a stove from us , we will gladly hook it up in our showroom and teach you how to run it. We do charge a small fee for this since we need to do set up, get stove pipe, fuel, etc. It is a fine way to eliminate most of the questions folks have when they get home and actually plan to use the stove. Bring some "fixins" and try cooking on your new stove. The fee is $75.00 for this service which covers the time of the technician and fuel etc.
3. Video disks. We are currently working on making CD's available on how to run various stoves such as: base heaters, upright coal stoves, ranges, oak stoves, and others will be available.
Antique Gas Valves
We have been getting lots of calls from folks with gas valve problems. The valves on antique gas stoves NEVER wear out. The proprietary sealant inside them does get old and dries out after 50-60 years. They get hard to turn or you can smell gas leaking from them. You do not need to discard the valves and replace them. We can rebuild these old valves and make them like new.
Call and talk to Brandon if interested.
Coal versus wood in ranges.
I own a 7 acre wood lot but I burn coal. In places where wood is plentiful like Maine, wood makes lots of sense. In my area I have a choice and have tried both. Coal in a rebuilt range will burn for 8 - 12 hours at a time without any tending. There is no dust or odor if you are using it properly. It does take practice but once mastered is great to use. There is no danger of a chimney fire with coal. If you just light the stove for cooking or special occasions then wood is your best bet but if you heat full time think a little about coal .
Buying Your Own Stove.
Be careful! I paid way too much for the first few stoves that I bought. Now I often walk away and pass the stove by. Here are some good things to keep in mind when buying a stove.
1. Stoves on Ebay and Craigslist are usually MULTIPLES of the actual value. I often see stoves advertised for more than we sell them for when they are restored.
2. Most stoves are not "rare". Maybe you haven't seen any like it but we have. When you start looking you would be surprised at the number of ranges around. Many just have not been looked at in years.
3. Not all old stoves are expensive or even desirable. Many are in such poor shape that they are really best used for parts for other stoves. Some will need so many parts that they can't be realistically restored for a reasonable price.
4. Some are just illegal and of little value. Gas/wood ranges with one oven usually fit this category.
5. Some are rare. That can be a problem. If you need parts they may not be available. That lowers the value of the stove.
6. Some are just for museum pieces or decorations. They have to be bought at a value that will let you just set them aside to look at.
7. If you pay too much, you will actually spend more in the long run than if you came in and just bought a stove from a restorer.
8. Do not use a stove without it being rebuilt. I have only seen 2 or 3 that did not need a rebuild and that includes new old stock stoves that were never sold.
9. FRANKENSTOVES! This is a stove that is made by combining pieces from other, usually unrelated stoves. When you buy an antique stove you should expect to get the whole stove and not a base from one company, a body from another company, and a back made by someone else. Some dealers do this. Look the stove over well to make sure the parts are marked from the same manufacturer. An antique stove can be an investment , but not if it is a conglomeration of parts from other stoves.
We usually pay from nothing to about $300 for ranges. Some are more but they have to be very good, very unusual, or something we have an order for. When you buy you need to figure in the cost of restoration. Nickel can run to $600 or so, a rebuild can run $1500 to do it correctly, Grates can run to $3-400. Are any parts missing? They need to be found and paid for. That can run into real money.
Hickory Glenwood 117
The Hickory Glenwood was made in two sizes for wood or coal. This 117 is the larger model. They have more filigree than the other models made at the time. These are fine direct draft models and are quite capable of heating an average home. You can use wood or coal in these and switch easily from one fuel to the other. There is also a boiling lid on top for adding moisture or cooking on top. $2800
Glenwood 208C In Enamel
The Glenwood C was the most popular stove in New England from 1914 right up into the 1930's. This is a fine example of the larger 208 model in two toned tan enamel. Usually the enamel is so poor that we have to remove it but this one is in remarkable shape. The stove has been completely rebuilt and can be had as a coal or a wood stove as desired. For wood it will hold at least 21" pieces. For coal the box will hold a fire over night and the grates are especially robust. It has a large rectangular oven that will hold almost any size turkey. No wonder they were the favorite range. $3000 , ready to go. Also available as a black range for $2900.
Planning to visit?
Ptolemy has passed away. He lost his battle with lymph cancer on November14, 2008. He did his best with the help of Doctor Mutty( real name). The world is a little less fun without him.
This is Ptolemy, my director of security at the hospital and he is friendly without mercy. His favorite things are exploring the woods, the drive thru at Burger King, and greeting visitors. If you have a friendly dog, Ptolemy will show him/her the very best places to play and probably get wet. The hospital is a working shop and you should not overdress for a visit. Fall and Spring are sometimes muddy. It is also good to call ahead as I have been known to occasionally leave for business reasons or bass fishing. Looking forward to seeing you.
Our nickel plating shop has moved. The problem is not that they moved but that they closed in July and they are still not open in October. I have gone door to door in the Rhode Island area looking for a plater that can meet our needs. We need quality, reasonable prices, and good turn around time. I have been unsuccessful. One shop was triple the current cost and another produced horrid work. Hopefully my shop will be back in action soon. Until then we will try to complete any work that does not require plating and partially finish other stoves in hopes of our nickel shop getting up to speed soon.
Since we had no plating coming in we addressed another problem. When we finish a stove it sits around the shop and gets dirty again. The cure was to have a place to put stoves that was dust free. We have spent the last few weeks building a showroom for the stoves. It is modeled after train stations from the teens and twenties with all period furniture and fixtures. Now customers don't need to pass through our dirty, noisy shop to look at completed stoves. Here are a couple photos of the room as it is today.
Nov. 29. Our nickel shop is open again!!!!
Magellan: Rest in peace our eternal friend.
Ptolemy is training a security assistant named Magellan. Just twelve weeks old in the above photo; it is hard to believe that over ten years has passed since this was taken. I am very sad to have to report that our faithful friend Magellan has lost his battle with liver cancer on October 31, 2014. He was a faithful friend who will be sorely, sorely missed. The shop is not as fun or complete without his presence, and his passing has created quite a void. Loosing good four-legged friends such as he is not getting any easier over the years, but we know he is not in pain and he passed with a full belly of the finest Angus steak. We will miss you old friend, rest in peace.
My security staff hard at work protecting the stove hospital from squirrels. What better way to spend a cold snowy afternoon? Incidentally, at the sight of a squirrel they turn into velocigoldens. 4 down so far this season and one skunk!!
This is Shep. He is a rescue dog that was scheduled to be put to sleep shortly after we saw him. He was skinny and had been abused badly but has finally struck gold. My son and his wife have adopted him and he is fitting in well here at the Stove Hospital. Magellan has become a big friend and part time jungle gym. Here he is resting between attacks on Magellan. If you drop by he will probably be here to help greet you.
Glendale Oak 30
Glendales come in two flavors. The early ones , like this one, were made at Somerset Foundry in Somerset, Mass. They were bought out by Leonard and Baker about 1901 or so. After that date they were made in Taunton, Mass. and are completely different
The early stoves are very uncommon but we do see some ranges from time to time and they are pretty good stoves. Only two oak stoves have turned up. One was a size 20 and this one , which is a size 30. I found the stove without any grates and worried about how to find some. Then at 3 AM I remembered that Leonard and Baker later produced the Wing's Best Base Heater. In the morning I tried some wing's grates and they are a perfect fit. Even the fire pot is exactly the same. Obviously Leonard and Baker wanted to get into the base heater market and pulled the old patterns off the shelf. Also, the grate system will interchange with the Glenwood 30 oak stove. Crawford made a great oak stove around this time and the nickel trim on their stove looks very similar to the Glendale. Since the Glendale predates them both I think both companies peeked in the windows at the Somerset Foundry. Possibly an early example of industrial espionage.
In any case it is one of one known and a great design. In the pictures it looks dusty and it is. It has been in my storage area for several years but will get a clean up before it leaves. If you want a powerful heater that is just a knock out, this is the stove. When all up to snuff $4500
Just a word about ranges.
When they were originally sold, you purchased the base range which was the base and the body. Then you added options till you arrived at the stove that met your needs. These options included the gas side car (left or right or both), gas side shelves, overhead gas ovens, water tanks, internal water heaters of several different types, a choice of 6 or 8 different grates, through the floor chutes for ashes, cabinet bases, colors, warming ovens (above and below the range), kerosene set up, left or right firebox, and many more choices. If you can think of it---somebody built it. Sometimes we have a difficult time finding some configurations as they may have been very unpopular at the time of manufacture or proved to be less durable than other choices. If you have something in mind I will try to find it for you.
In New England many folks never throw things out.
This garage is one example of someone that could not part with the old stoves. Over the years it developed into a small collection of stoves. The place is now sold so they had to go. This is the third such garage I have been in this year. Two truckloads came from here to my barn. They will all be restored and put back into use.
wood/gas combination ranges
Many of the combination ranges are illegal today. Call with a description BEFORE you buy one and we can help you determine if it is one that can be serviced, or if it is best left where it is now! THIS CAN SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME, MONEY, AND GRIEF!
Barstow coal recirculator 1851, Chilson Trio stove 1851, Low Art Tile stove 1880's
These are all odd ball stoves from the 1850's- 1880's. I collect stoves that are old enough that they will never be called on for heat again. Many of these are close to unique and all of them reflect the best thinking of their time. These were the high tech implements of the past and should be saved. I have perhaps 100 or so and I will continue to collect, repair, and store them. My son, the history teacher, takes a new stove each week to his schoolroom and displays the best ironwork of each era.
Eventually they will go into some museum for future generations to appreciate. If you have a strange old stove that is probably too old for use. I would like to know about it. I do not sell these but will eventually donate them somewhere where they will be safe.
Why New England Stoves?
We prefer stoves made in this area for several reasons. One is that many stoves manufactured in the mid-west are part sheet metal and part cast iron. The pieces are riveted together and a rebuild requires drilling out all the rivets, removing lots of asbestos sheets, and putting all new rivets in when assembling the stove. The parts that wear are usually buried under the oven or in the back. I would rather eat a worm. Stoves in this area are plentiful and come apart easily. We can disassemble, replace parts etc., and reassemble without worrying about whether the parts will fit or not. If we have defective parts, they can be replaced or recast as needed. You end up with a better product.
Many times an inspector will say a stove must be UL listed. This rule only applies to stoves manufactured since Jan. 1, 1981. Any stove made before that time is grandfathered but must be looked over for damage etc. The rules are found under the BOCA codes or the ASME codes, " solid fuel room heaters" in the exemption section at the end.
Here is how we rebuild
This is an example of a Glenwood 508E range that spent many years in a barn and at least two or three outdoors. It looks to be complete with no breaks but it needs a complete rebuild.
What is involved in properly rebuilding a kitchen range?
I have seen many examples of shoddy work in what was supposed to be a rebuilt range. Examples include just taking the cook surface off and sandblasting the stove whole to just a good washing with detergent. All may look good upon completion, but only one will last. See the below sections for the correct, long lasting rebuild process.
This is my son's name for what kills old stoves. There is caulking in the joints of the stoves. Over the years the stove heats and cools many times plus it sits around all summer and gets damp every day.
When the stove heats up, the metal expands and any loose caulking or rust tends to slide downward in the joints. That puts pressure on the lower corners of the stove. Dampness adds more rust and the rust grows and
expands. eventually it breaks the corner brackets and panels begin to move around which breaks more tabs. In the end the stove falls apart in a heap.
Rustjacking is one reason why a rebuild is so important.
1. We disassemble to the last nut and bolt. Everything needs to come apart so we can inspect all the parts and replace missing or badly damaged parts.
Most dealers don't do this but claim they do.
Notice that even the base has been broken down. I do this so I can paint the inside of the legs where they touch the side rails. If I don't do this there is a chance that rust could form in the joint and travel under the paint. It isn't that bad for the stove but it is ugly.
2. It is at this point that I usually find a number of cracks , broken pieces , or worse yet, something that was fixed years ago by that uncle that knows everything. I usually end up unrestoring these parts before I continue.
3. Everything goes into the sandblast room and is sorted and set on the blast table. I use a system that recirculates the sand so I use it several times. It breaks down into finer particles and actually works better after it has been used a couple times.
4. After blasting , any broken parts go to the welding area and are welded, fishplated, or both. I also usually need to replace corner brackets by welding or fabricating new
ones. Certain models seem to break in certain places so I try to reinforce these points. Lids often need to be welded because they leak around the lifter holes.
5. The stove parts are painted in some cases. The front frame needs to be painted now so I don't paint the inside of the oven later. I like to paint the oven walls before assembly. All the panels are painted with our two part black and white high temp. paint.. Painting while the stove is apart assures that there will be no overspray in the oven.
6. The entire stove is assembled in the assembly area , painted (3 coats), and closely inspected
7. The firebox is put in place. This can be a wood bottom, coal/ wood grate, or coal only bars. New grates can be found, but my foundry work is done in Wisconsin. They do great work but I have to pay shipping both ways plus the cost of the work. We then line the box with refractory material appropriate to the application.
8. The ash pan is built to fit the stove. The thermometer is fixed or replaced
9. Nickel is replaced on the stove. I have a very good shop. Not cheap, just good. A kitchen range will run from about $300 up depending on the complexity of the nickel for that model. The price also seems to vary with golf scores, wind direction etc.
Some notes on these stoves
One of the reasons stoves wear out is not that they are used each winter but that they are not used each summer. In summer the house gets warm during the day. At night cool air falls down the chimney and moisture condenses inside the stove. This water mixes with the ash and forms harmful chemicals which eat the iron from the inside out. Stoves with water tanks are often paper thin around the tank. Be very careful when purchasing these stoves. It is best to disconnect the stove from the flue in summer to eliminate the problem.
We paint our stoves with a high quality stove paint. Rust has never been a problem for us. One way to eliminate the problem is to rub a small amount of cooking oil into the cook surface in spring. Just put some on a rag and rub into the metal. Get rid of the rag right away to prevent festering and fire danger. The stove will smoke some in the fall the first time it is lit, but it will soon go away.
Sometimes some of the stove cement will stain the stove around joints. I take some cooking oil on my finger and rub it into the area. In ten minutes the stain goes away and never comes back. I have no idea why.
Most stoves advertised online like Craigslist or ebay are overpriced. I cannot buy these, fix them , and break even. Everyone thinks they have the only one around. Too much Antiques Road Show and American Pickers. If you cannot sell your stove it is priced too high. If you want to buy a stove, don't be afraid to walk away from a deal that seems wrong. I do all the time.
When looking at a stove check the corners, get a flashlight and look around in the oven, in back, and underneath. Especially check the wall between the firebox and the oven and the corners. Can the stove be fixed or do you need to find another like it to get one good one? Keep in mind the cost of restoration. Nickel runs $300 UP for a range, Welding rod is $77 per pound, paint is not cheap and I buy it by the several case lot. Sandblasting is quite a project. Don't forget grates. A new set from a foundry(if you have the original patterns) can run between $200-$300. The firebox liner will run $50 or so. Add it up before you buy and find out it's too expensive. Most antique ranges can be purchased for under $300. Do not buy wood/ gas combos without checking. Most are illegal today.
Let's say you find a model T Ford in a barn. Would you drag it home, pour gas in it, and start to commute to work with it the next day. No! But people try it all the time with stoves. You cannot just connect a stove and start using it. Here are some of the problems;
1. Does it have grates? If not you need to find a set. Some folks use thick steel plates in the firebox. They expand more than iron and will crack the box. Can you drop wood down in the ashpit? Yes you can, but it will blow a hole in the oven wall before long. The folks that designed these stoves knew what they were doing and you should do your best to get the stove back to what it was in the beginning. The autos today are pretty dependable after 110 years or development. The wood/coal stove industry in the USA started in 1627 and lasted untill WW2 or so---over 300 years. They got it right!!
2. "My friend says If you burn wood you don't need a liner in the firepot." I hear that all the time and it is wrong. I also get calls all the time from people wanting a new firepot. Don't listen to the oldtimer that tells you bunk like this. We have liners for almost everything. A firepot with a proper liner is good for a century or two. Firepots are expensive because so many people have used them without liners.
3. The stove is just like new and ready to use. NO!!! We bought out a building full of new old stock ranges from the 1930's. They were still crated and every one needed a rebuild. The caulking in the joints breaks down, the joints develop rust, the joints fill with smoke and particulates, and the corners are under great pressure. A rebuild puts everything back to day one and the stove will last a lifetime.
4. The stove gives off a ton of heat, it even gets red. OUCH! The stove should NEVER get red. If it does, it is overheated and will warp, crack, self destroy, etc. The stove is leaking air, or you need a damper, or you need a liner etc.
5. Dampers, I keep hearing that you need no damper or a barometric damper. Both are wrong. If you have no damper you will just send the heat up the flue and kill the caribou... not to mention fatigue your stove. Do not confuse the controls on the stove for dampers. The controls inside the stove are draft directional controls that send smoke up the flue directly, or force it around the oven cavity. You do need an old fashioned manual damper in the first section of pipe above the stove. Some modern installers insist on a barometric damper. They are required with most modern stoves but will kill any chance of heating with an antique. Go to the hardware store and buy a plain old fashioned damper. They work.
Till the advent of oil folks had these and nothing else. They long ago perfected the coal and wood stoves of their day. Coal burning technology peaked around 1910 and went down hill because of cheap oil and central heating. Don't try to out think what they did. Better to use their ideas and enjoy the stove and the heat
Household Base Heater #6
The photo doen't really show the size of this stove. These are serous heaters for use with wood or coal. This one came from a garden shed here in RI where it sat for many years. The owner planned to rebuild it himself but since then has had to live with an oxygen bottle. No flames allowed in the home nowadays. This was a good solid original and has been rebuilt with new grates , liners , etc. Ready to go and do some serious heating $2900 SOLD
Village Crawford Royal
Village Crawford Royal 8-20. This is one of my personal favorites. I had one in my kitchen for several years. This one is set up for wood only and feeds from the top or from the front. About 10 years ago my son and I were in a "junk barn" in Searsport, Maine. He found tucked under a bench a new old stock Village crawford firebox extender. I have had several made and one is on this stove which gives it a firebox length of 23". Very large for a medium size stove. The oven is the 20" model and this is just a great stove. $2700 SOLD I have several more in this model
Glenwood 308 Home grand with warming oven.
In 35 years of collecting and restoring stoves I have never had a chance to pick up a Glenwood Home Grand with the warming oven. They are just very rare. The stove was the top of the Glenwood line and the double mantle back was very impressive. The warming oven was infrequently ordered and are exceptionally rare today. This one was put in a dry cellar around 60 years ago and just came to light last week. IT has lots of dust and assorted crud on it but it will clean up beautifully. The stove is complete, not broken up, and not pitted as many are. This is an exceptional example of a rare stove that I have never had a chance at before. I would like to set this one up for coal or wood burning. I used a similar stove without the warming oven but removed it because it made the house too hot. Don't let the photo trick you. The stove is 56" long and very subtantially built. If you have the need for a great stove and lots of heat, this may be the ticket. $3900
Just completed. A rare 508E with the very early roll warming oven. These are very hard to find and it has been years since one came in. The later stoves have a sheet metal warming oven which is nice but this cast iron version is better. This one has been set up for a combination of wood and coal burning as needed. Ready to go for many years. Sorry, SOLD
Cast Iron Cookware
What’s Coming Soon?
Here is a photo of the back of my truck. We can see that everyone will want to abandon oil as a heat source this coming winter and are laying in a supply of stoves that we believe folks will need. This is one day's worth. We will continue to buy as many as we can buy reasonably while the weather is warm. I think this fall we will simply be out straight and unable to leave to get stoves. In this load are a perfect #16 Railway King, a Perfect #18 cannon heater, a Cherub Glenwood wood parlor, and a superb Grand Glenwood Parlor stove.
Welding Cast iron stoves
The welding rod that we use for cast iron is 99% nickel and runs around $77.00 per pound. I am hearing from some folks that you can use regular 6011 rod to weld cast iron. It costs a dollar or two per pound. I agree that you can do this and the welds look good. However, The cheap rod expands differently than cast iron and once the stove is used a few times a new crack will develop next to the weld and follow the path of the old crack. We have several here for repair because of this. We will continue to use the expensive rod as we have had no problems with it and have been called on to repair many welds made by the cheaper rod. When looking for a restorer this is one of the invisible things that can make a huge difference down the road.
Base heaters came in around 1905 and were produced by several firms in Taunton, Mass. The smoke travels up the main body, down the back pipe,under the ashpit, back up the back pipe , then out of the stove. It may travel 10 to 12 feet inside the stove so that a maximum amount of heat is transferred to the room. These represent the peak of coal burning technology and are serious heaters. They may burn coal or wood as desired. They also have lots of nickel trim and are impressive from any angle. I have models from Glenwood, Wing's Best, Crawford, Tessier, and Herald. They start at $2800 and up depending on model and size.